Brexit of Fashion

With Manchester being my home city and having built my life in South East London, the past few weeks have naturally been pretty tough. However, despite the evil efforts of a minority to rock our democracy attempting to cast a shadow over our diverse, inclusive and vibrant culture, today marks what it is to live, to have a vote and to celebrate our wonderful, all-embracing and vivacious nation, where everyone has a say!

Union Jack

#strongtogether

So in the spirit of election day as we eagerly await the all important results, not to mention Brexit lurking around the corner and the recent inauguration of the new French president, this post looks at how politics can impact the fashion world by highlighting some potential effects of Brexit on the fashion industry.

* The images used in this post are some of the tributes that have resonated with me during recent events, which I thought would be fitting to share and which remind me of what a fantastic country we live in.

With so much uncertainty around how Brexit will pan out, not to mention our imminent anticipation of who our next prime minister will be during Brexit negotiations, it’s hard to predict what the future of the fashion industry will look like in post Brexit Britain. What is for sure is that so much uncertainty makes people nervous and can, as a result, have negative connotations…

Uncertainty nerves

Uncertainty could lower consumer confidence and diminish purchases in non-essential goods. Having said that, the likes of Harrods and other luxury stores have recently reported record sales. They have cashed in on tourist spending as a result of the weaker pound. For overseas visitors, designer goods are now at bargain prices, being cheaper here in the UK. For example, the Louis Vuitton Peedy bag is around $200 US cheaper in the UK for our American visitors than it would be if they’d bought it back home.

we are not afraid

#wearenotafraid

 

Might we be faced with a new set of laws?

If we look at the law in the strictest sense, the English law governing consumer rights is the Consumer Rights Act 2015. This particular piece of legislation already implements the EU Consumer Rights Directive 2011/83/EU. These are the laws that ensure you have the opportunity to return an item if you’re unhappy with it, or where something you’ve bought is faulty you’re entitled to a full refund. It’s therefore unlikely that our rights as consumers will change drastically in the near future.

What about my trade marks?

With trade marks, many will have opted to apply for an EU Trade Mark (protecting their mark in all EU member states), over a UK Trade Mark (which only gives protection in the UK). At the time of applying, perhaps the main market traded in by the owner was the UK, but the owner wished to expand their business across Europe, hence the foresight of applying for an EUTM. What position will this person be in now we are leaving the EU, will an EUTM still have protection in the UK?

Love for all

#loveforallhatredfornone

It’s a possibility that there might be a transitional system enabling EUTM holders to convert their marks to national UK marks, if EUTMs are no longer enforceable in the UK. In the meantime, there’s also a worry that if those trade mark owners hold onto their EUTM protection, there could be non use challenges if the mark has only been used in the UK in the last 5 years, so such trade mark owners may need to start thinking about using their trade mark in the rest of Europe to avoid losing protection in the 27 member states.

In addition, those who wish to oppose or challenge any EUTM applications or registrations based on unregistered earlier rights, will need to think of a new strategy if those unregistered earlier rights have only been utilised in the UK.

In the same way, registered and unregistered community design rights will no longer be applicable in the UK.

We are not afraid2

#standingtogether

Tariffs and the single market

Another issue is around goods tariffs. British based designers and retailers have moved goods around Europe at no extra cost since the EU single market began over 20 years ago. Brexit might mean this can no longer be done without those designers paying tariffs, such as import and export taxes. This impacts designers who might want to showcase collections at fashion week in Paris or Milan and retailers whose collections are made on the continent. Retailers are likely to pass these costs onto consumers. This all depends on whether the UK remains part of the single market, however there are unlikely to be immediate changes to import and export duties.

Currency affecting manufacturing costs

Currency volatility and a weaker pound could result in brands having to pay higher manufacturing costs to make their products in factories abroad, a cost which would again undoubtedly be passed onto the consumer.

Westminster and London Bridge

#lovelondon

Even for those goods that are British made, the raw materials required to produce them are more often than not imported and purchased in foreign currency. So if exchange rates remain volatile, such higher costs will mean that British brands become more expensive for British consumers.

British fashion industry reputation and appeal

The British fashion industry has many international connections and networks. It is possible that leaving the EU could impact the aspirations of promising fashion talent. Be that through an aspiring young European designer being put off coming to the UK if obtaining a visa becomes far too much hassle, or simply fearing a less inclusive and cohesive community.

London is open

#londonisopen

What next…

To succeed, the fashion industry needs to firstly focus on maintaining and growing its international reputation through pushing and showcasing its best through London Fashion Week. Secondly, the industry needs to reassess its business models and pricing strategies to respond to challenges in the wake of a weaker pound, place less reliance on imports and perhaps focus more on attracting, retaining and developing home-grown talent.

Political round up

As I sit here typing this blog whilst half listening to exit poll bickering, I once again find myself reflecting on the events of the past few weeks. Whichever colour of the electorate rainbow your political alliance resides with today, of paramount significance to me is that those who are lucky enough to live in this democratic society made the most of their vote!

18812939_1093222790811393_3290080278860529664_n

#londonbridge

By exercising our right to vote we honor our privileged ability to live in a free, tolerant and dynamic society. A society that cannot be broken and one that sparkles in its acceptance and celebration of a people made up of those from many different backgrounds, religions and cultures coming together to make our little island GREAT Britain!

Over and out

As morning breaks the party elected to go on and lead us through Brexit negotiations will become clear. Whilst a period of uncertainty will remain over how Brexit negotiations will go, clarity will follow and the UK’s position with regards to Brexit in general and also how this will impact the fashion industry will become light.

One love

#onelove

One love!

Amazon – hot to trot with fashion offering…

DVDs, CDs, Zak Posen, Books…Hang on a minute; did you just say Zak Posen…on Amazon?

It’s well known that Amazon has been trying to enter the fashion world for some time, and 2015/2016 has really seen it step up its efforts to break the notoriously difficult market.

Amazon

Hey little guy! We love the Ama-bot! Perhaps all Amazon fashion deliveries should come in a package like this one…

The beginning…

Amazon has been on the fashion trail since as early as 2006 when it first acquired online retail website SHOPBOP. In 2011 it launched MyHabit, another online retail website created “in response to customers’ desires to shop intelligently from a selection of great brands”.

In 2012 it really took a leap of faith, opening a huge Brooklyn photography studio, hiring Barneys’ Fashion Director as an advisor and launching My Fashion on the Amazon website, a section dedicated to all things fashion. The following year saw the launch of East Dane, an equivalent to SHOPBOP targeting the male market.

Barneys NYC

Amazon pulled out all of the stops, even hiring Barneys’ NYC fashion director to advise on all things fashion!

Louis Vuitton on Amazon?

So has Amazon attracted any high fashion brands?

Well, not as yet, unfortunately! Designers such as Louis Vuitton have been reluctant to create an association with Amazon, preferring to keep their designs exclusive and prices high. In fact, the then Louis Vuitton Chief Executive, Yves Carcelle, made this perfectly clear during 2012, telling Vogue UK that “Amazon will never sell Louis Vuitton, because we are the only ones that sell it.

LV

“Amazon will never sell Louis Vuitton”…

In 2015, the Chief Marketing Officer of Amazon’s fashion division explained to Business of Fashion that they were not targeting designer brands, confirming that “there has been a lot of speculation on us entering the luxury market and that is just not something we’re focused on right now.

So which brave brands have been enticed by Amazon? Well, high profile designers such as Zac Posen and Kate Spade are both available on the US site, whilst Lacoste, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger and Hugo Boss can also all be purchased via amazon.com. Amazon also has a partnership with department store giants Debenhams. So whilst many designer brands may have thus far resisted Amazon’s call, Zac Posen can hardly be considered downmarket (especially not when a handbag could set you back $595!).

Lacoste

…but it will sell Lacoste!

The mission continues

Not one to be defeated, Amazon has continued to try and develop its fashion credentials, sponsoring the first ever New York Men’s Fashion Week held in July 2015, and the OCFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund Fashion Show held during October 2015.

Vogue

All about British Vogue

It has also partnered with up and coming British model Suki Waterhouse, marketing her favourite Autumn/Winter pieces that are all purchasable on Amazon, whilst East Dane has launched a new Michael Kors collection dedicated to ‘streamlined accessories’.

October 2015 saw the purchase of the new season of the fashion based reality show ‘The Fashion Fund’. The show features none other than fashion royalty Anna Wintour and Diane von Furstenberg, and a dedicated section on the Amazon website will be set up to sell a collection of the 2015 finalists’ designs.

The new Prime Now service may also be a step towards the coveted fashion elite, with customers able to buy clothing and accessories with one and two hour delivery slots.

The future…

It’s clear that Amazon has increased its efforts to become a fashion destination, and there appears to be no sign yet that it will be slowing down any time soon. So whilst you may have to currently shop elsewhere for your Chanel handbag or Louboutin heels, there may be a time very soon when you can buy these alongside your books, DVDs and CDs, perhaps even by drone delivery!

Chanel

Wonder what Coco would think about her legacy brand being potentially bought alongside groceries?!

Hey! Hands off my IP! (Design Rights)

Continuing with the Hey! Hands off My IP series, October’s blog post looks at the benefits and drawbacks of design rights for fashion brands, and asks whether it really is worth pursuing a registered design right in the fashion industry.

Vintage Courreges shades

An iconic sunglasses design from the 60’s space age designer, Andre Courreges

What are design rights?

Design rights protect the appearance of a product, or part of the product, enabling owners of the design to enforce their rights against anyone using the design without consent.

Under English law, you can have a registered or unregistered design right and rely on either for protection. However, registered design rights offer more protection. A registered design right lasts for up to 25 years (subject to renewal every 5 years), whereas an unregistered design right is only valid for either:

  • 10 years from first marketing the product made to the design; or
  • 15 years from creation of a design document

whichever is shorter.

If relying on an unregistered design right, the right doesn’t actually come into existence until the design has been recorded in a design document, or an article has been made to the design.

Records

Record everything!

Designers should therefore always sign and date their design documents. Records should be kept of the design document and the design process, and the date of first marketing of articles made to the design should also be recorded. These will be needed if your design is infringed in order to prove the date from which the right exists and that it is still valid.

Design right criteria

For both registered and unregistered design rights, a design must be:

  • made up of a shape or outline of the whole or part of an object;
  • original and have individual character, which means that it cannot be common; and
  • recorded in a design document or be the subject of an object made to the design.
Fashion design 1

Even a rough sketch of your design will be a sufficient record

To be protected by unregistered design right, a design must not be:

  • a method or principle of construction;
  • comprise features of shape or configuration of an object which:
    • enable the object to fit with another object so that either object can perform its intended function; or
    • are dependent upon the appearance of another object, of which the article is intended by the designer to form an integral part; or
  • be a design for surface decoration.

For all of you legal buffs out there, the relevant statute is the Copyright Designs and Patents Act 1988 and the above criteria and restrictions can be found at section 213 here.

What can’t be registered

There’re always some restrictions on what can and can’t be registered, here are some of the main ones:

  • hidden parts (parts which can’t be seen once the product is made);
  • features which are needed to allow the object to perform a technical function; or
  • designs which go against public policy or morality.
Restriction

Don’t forget to consider the restrictions before applying to register a design

Why register?

Apart from being easier to prove than an unregistered design, and the fact you have 10, possibly 15 years more worth of protection, other benefits of registering as opposed to simply relying on unregistered rights are:

  • Speed: Protection starts from the application date. Registration is likely to take place within two months of filing the design with EU Intellectual Property Office.
  • Geographical scope: With a registered Community Design, the right provides EU-wide protection with the possibility of further international protection.
  • Enforcement: A pan-European injunction may be available and is a cost-effective way of protecting a design in a number of different markets.
Speed

The registration process is fast, unlike registration of other IP rights

What do I need to do to register a design right in the UK?

It’s always worth doing a clearance search first to check there isn’t a similar design right registered in the territory you’re looking for protection in. However, unlike with trade marks, the examiner assessing your application doesn’t notify owners of those designs, which could be deemed similar. Instead it would be up to those owners to check on any design rights potentially infringing their earlier rights and challenge on the basis of infringement. This means the registration process is fast!

If you elect to have a clearance search carried out, once you have the go ahead, you can register a design with the UK Intellectual Property Office for UK-wide protection only, or with the EU Intellectual Property Office for EU-wide protection in all 28 Member States. A registered Community Design (EU-wide) is more expensive, but obviously offers much more protection than registering in the UK only.

As with all IP rights, it’s really important to get an expert involved to avoid any nasty pitfalls. Be sure to therefore instruct a lawyer to carry out any clearance searches and register the designs for you – not only that, it takes the hassle away from having to do it yourself!

Register

Registering a design right can be hugely beneficial, but be sure to consider your individual circumstances to assess whether it will work for you!

When should I apply to register my design?

An application to register a design should be lodged prior to publication, ideally the day before, or the same day that the design is showcased to the public.

Is it worth a fashion designer applying to register a design?

As an early stage brand unless you are likely to re-use the design, collection after collection, season after season, then it’s not worth registering a design in the fashion industry. Doing so could be extremely costly given the amount of individual designs one collection will produce and the amount of collections a brand will show during its lifetime!

However, that said, some designers do re-use particular designs as a sort of trade mark of their brand. Take for example Chanel’sBoy Chanel” iconic handbag, or Dior’sFuturist Boots” from Raf Simons’ Spring/Summer 2015 collection.

Chanel boy bag

Chanel’s iconic “Boy Chanel” handbag registered design

At this particular show, Simons exposed a supernatural fashion crusade between past, present and future, which was inspired by David Bowie, who provided a soundtrack for the psychedelic looks on the runway. On his design, Simons commented, “This season, the Dior couture woman will walking on diamonds on the soles of her shoes”, pure poetry!

With such an iconic design, and given the magnitude of the design house itself, it’s no wonder that the House of Dior Couture wanted to protect this particular design.

Dior Futurist Boots

Walking on diamonds, here’s an example of Dior’s “Futurist Boots” registered design

If however, you think a particular design will only be shown once in one collection, or isn’t likely to become iconic of the brand itself, copyright is perhaps a better intellectual property right to rely on to keep costs down. See my previous post, “Hey! Hands off my IP! (Copyright)” for more info.

FTL verdict

When protecting designs, here are some really useful practical steps to consider, whether relying on unregistered or registered design rights, or copyright:

Fashion design sketch 2

It’s always a good idea to keep documented evidence of your designs, whether you decide to apply for registration or not

  • Use appropriate copyright notices. These put third parties on notice of a designer’s rights, such the rights in a design drawing. These should take the form of “Copyright © – [name of copyright owner]” followed by the date of first creation (the year will be sufficient), for example “© Sarah Simpson 2007”.
  • Safely archive the original design drawings, with dates and stamps/signatures.
  • Think about creating a stamp to use on key documents to mark their importance.
  • Avoid circulating design drawings, sketches and other prep work to third parties.
  • Keep contact details for each individual designer or artist working for you, including their name and nationality, copies of their employment or consultancy contract and any assignment documents.
  • Have the above documents checked by a lawyer to ensure it is the brand that owns the designs and not the individual designer – this is particularly important where designers are engaged with the brand on a consultancy basis, rather than employed by the brand.

Pants Down at Black Forest Games!

After regrettably buying my husband a PS4 for Christmas, I thought it was about time I posted for all of the gamers out there, but of course maintaining a fashion link!

This week’s post focuses on Black Forest Games’ unsuccessful EU Trade Mark (EUTM) application for DIESELSTÖRMERS after opposition from the Diesel clothing brand.

The folks at Black Forest said “the decision caught us with our pants down” and issued the following photograph. At least the brand hasn’t lost its sense of humor!

Dieselstormers

That’s one way to respond to an EUTM application opposition!

All about the game

Dieselstörmers is a computer game, described as combining “roguelike action with 3D graphics and lots of old-school run ’n’ gun action”. In all honesty, this doesn’t mean a great deal to me, but hopefully it resonates with the hardcore gamers!

Black Forest Games, apart from its witty press releases, is an independent game studio that was established in 2012. The studio’s HQ is in Offenburg, Germany. You can find out more here.

Diesel is a well known mid-end clothing label, and sells its goods across the world. Not a brand you would typically associate with gaming!

Diesel

Diesel, a brand you would ordinarily associate with gaming?!

Matter of fact

Diesel S.P.A. owns two EUTMs for DIESEL, which gives the brand protection across all 28 Member states for goods like clothing, shoes and accessories, but surprisingly also covers things like electronic games, game systems, DVDs and computers among others.

Black Forest Games applied to register DIESELSTÖRMERS as an EUTM in April 2014 for goods including DVDs and CDs for computer or video games. The studio also made it clear that their DIESEL reference was to the fuel, and not an ode to fashion in any way.

Diesel opposed this application in July 2014 on the grounds that allowing the application would create a strong likelihood of confusion between its DIESEL mark and the DIESELSTÖRMERS mark.

Confusing

Diesel opposed the DIESELSTORMERS application on the grounds of likelihood of confusion with its well established brand

Black Forest Games expected to be able to settle amicably with Diesel as DIESELSTÖRMERS would not in any way relate to the main wares under the Diesel brand. However, Diesel turned out to be a tough cookie and decided to formally continue with the opposition.

Decisions decisions…

The EU IPO (the regulatory body governing EUTMs) agreed with Diesel. Black Forest Games’ application was rejected. The grounds the EU IPO referred to in its decision were:

  • The goods Black Forrest Games applied for were identical or similar to Diesel’s registered goods.
  • The marks were visually, aurally and conceptually similar based on the use of the word DIESEL in both.
  • The overall impression of the sign may have led the public to believe that the goods came from the same company, or from a linked company.
Similar

Far too similar for the EU IPO’s liking!

FTL verdict

This case is a timely reminder that trade mark oppositions are fought on the basis of the goods and services for which the earlier mark is registered, not just those goods and services for which it is used.

In this case Diesel was successful because its trade mark registrations covered computer games, even though its reputation is as a clothing brand. This is why it is so important to have professional trade mark clearance searches carried out before you decide to adopt a new brand.

Pacman

Who would’ve thought, Diesel games!

Since the decision, Black Forest Games has re-branded the game in question to ROGUESTORMERS – catchy!

Until next time it’s over and out. I’m off to brush up on my FIFA skills…